Brent Koster has spent most of his life in Michigan State prisons. Being practically raised on prison food, he has seen the rise and fall of its quality as it’s moved from public to private food services. He’s one of the roughly 30 kitchen workers, and from behind that food line he watches juvenile delinquents no younger than he was when he entered the system stand in uniform cafeteria lines waiting to be served.
“I hate to admit it, but I have a number of years in, 43 years actually,” Koster, who was convicted of murder in 1973, told Medical Daily. “I went through a number of food transitions and it used to be pretty good. But when the state went through the budget cuts, it got progressively worse and worse and worse.”
The meatballs hurt his stomach, the chicken patties are indistinguishable from the fish dishes, and the inmates have come to “affectionately call the bologna cow tongue.”
Prison systems have a lengthy history of poor food quality, raising questions of ethical standards, especially when it comes to the oft-used “re-rack system.” Under the re-rack system, 95 percent of uneaten food is not thrown out, but rather frozen and re-served up to seven days after it was first distributed to the inmates. Meals lack basic dietary necessities, and fruits and vegetables are absent from inmate trays unless otherwise asked for due to budget cuts.
In December 2013, private food corporation Aramark won a bid to take over food services in Michigan State prisons, replacing hundreds of state workers with private employees. The menu is still administered and regulated by the Department of Corrections, but the responsibility to fulfill the daily meal guidelines and policies shifted from the state up to Aramark.
The privatization of prison food services began in 1939, when an Alabama state law handed over the reins to county sheriffs with a food budget of $1.75 a day per prisoner. Budgets largely dictated the food quality served to prisoners, and more than 70 years later the power of financial consideration still holds true. Today, the daily cost to feed a prisoner is between $2 and $3 a day.
There are more than 1.5 million incarcerated in state and federal prisons, according to the Department of Justice, and every single one must be fed according to guidelines. The federally run Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and state departments of health have designed food regulations that are both extensive and explicitly detailed in order to ensure safety and quality for the general public. However, that carefully calibrated system of food distribution and meal balance does not apply to prisons.
There is an ongoing fight for better quality prison food, with proposed theories on how to sustain a healthful diet while behind bars.The national debate involving correctional institutions comes during a time of tight governmental budget cuts and divided sympathy for the incarcerated.
After speaking with Koster about his experience, I decided to try the food for myself. I used the Federal Bureau of Prisons' Certified Menu from 2012 because it is recent and reflective of many meals Koster described to me in our interview. Although Koster would probably argue otherwise, food service in prisons aims to “prepare and serve three daily nutritional, appetizing meals” according to the Federal Bureau of Prisons. There are three menu options provided for each inmate: regular, heart healthy, and non-flex diet (vegetarian). Every meal is certified by Religious Services as kosher regardless of individual religious affiliation.
The heart healthy option is supposed to be low in sodium, fat, cholesterol, and sugar. Wheat bread replaces white bread and fruit is given instead of dessert. However, this meal option is provided for “the needs of inmates with special dietary needs,” such as diabetics or those at risk for cardiovascular disease, according to the 2007 Prisoner Law Section of Americans for Effective Law Enforcement (AELE) Law Journal.
Does it really matter if the prison serves the right portion of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, and unprocessed proteins each day? Is it inhumane to feed rapists white bread while they’re being punished for unspeakable crimes? By experiencing the day-to-day menu myself, I got a glimpse of what it’s like to eat without options.
My Week of Eating Like A Prisoner:
Prisoner meals for Monday through Sunday from the 2012 Federal Bureau of Prisons Certified Food Menu, week 1.
Monday
Breakfast
Monday's breakfast includes oatmeal, jelly, margarine, white bread, and an orange with a glass of milk.- Orange
- Package of oatmeal
- (3) slice of white bread
- (2) cups of skim milk
- (2) package of jelly
- (2) margarine
Lunch
Monday's lunch includes hot dog with beans and potatoes, white bread, and an apple.- Beans and franks
- Potatoes
- (2) mustard
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) margarine
- Apple
- Kosher beverage
Dinner
Monday's dinner includes catfish, beans, and white rice.- Fish fillet
- Tomato Sauce
- White rice
- Lima beans
- (2) tartar sauce
- (3) slices of bread
- (2) margarine
- Apple
- Kosher beverage
“Dinner is nicely varied with the protein source,” Amy Shapiro, the founder of Real Nutrition NYC, told Medical Daily. “However, most of the carbs supplied are white from the bread to the rice to the pasta, which is void of fiber and many nutrients.”
Tuesday
Breakfast
Tuesday's breakfast includes grits, margarine, white bread, and an apple with a glass of milk.- Apple
- Package of grits
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) cups of skim milk
- (2) package of jelly
- (2) margarine
According to the Harvard School of Public Health, “a diet including a lot of white bread and other high-glycemic foods — like sweets, candy, desserts, and white potatoes — increases your risk for weight gain, type 2 diabetes, and heart disease.”
Lunch
Tuesday's lunch includes sardines, potato chips, white bread, an orange, and vegetable juice.- Package of sardines
- Package of potato chips
- Vegetable juice
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) salad dressing
- (2) mustard
- Orange
- Kosher beverage
“Vegetable juice is devoid of fiber,” Shapiro said. “I like that the inmates receive three fruits daily and veggies at two meals, but I would like to see more fish that is not fried, whole grains, colorful veggies, and heart healthy fats.”
Dinner
Tuesday's dinner includes turkey patty with gravy, mashed potatoes, mixed vegetables, and a glass of water.- Turkey cutlet
- Gravy
- Mashed potatoes
- Mixed vegetables
- (3) slices of white bread
- Orange
- Kosher beverage
Wednesday
Breakfast
Friday's breakfast includes bran cereal with milk, white bread, an orange, and a glass of milk.- Orange
- Package of bran cereal
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) cups of skim milk
- (2) package of jelly
- (2) margarine
Shapiro shed some light on prisoners’ morning meals: “The menu is pretty carb heavy, especially at breakfast, with the only protein really coming from the milk. Breakfast errs on the high sugar side with sugar. Margarine is also not a healthy sub for butter.”
Lunch
Wednesday's lunch includes meatloaf, mashed potatoes, mixed vegetables, white bread, a banana, and a glass of water.- Beef meatloaf
- Brown gravy
- Mashed potatoes
- Mixed vegetables
- (3) slices of white bread
- Banana
- Kosher beverage
Dinner
Wednesday's dinner includes chicken thighs with mushrooms and carrots over a bed of macaroni pasta, with white bread, an apple, and a glass of water.- Chicken cacciatore
- Tomato sauce
- Mushrooms
- Macaroni pasta
- Carrots
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) margarine
- Apple
- Kosher beverage
Later that night, I realized the food was starting to affect me on a mental level when my boyfriend’s normally light tone was laced with concern, “You’ve been really out of it lately. Are you OK?”
I had also been foggy at work for the last couple of days, having a difficult time stringing simple sentences together in my writing. I thought it was all in my head, but I was slowly learning the power food had on my mind and, as I would soon learn, my body.
Thursday
Breakfast
Thursday's breakfast includes oatmeal with banana, white bread, and a glass of milk.- Banana
- Package of oatmeal
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) cups of skim milk
- (2) package of jelly
- (2) margarine
But I didn’t make it far before I sat hunched over in the hallway both dizzy and nauseous. Was I getting sick? I put my hand to my forehead and felt a cold but fine layer of sweat coated my skin. I decided to get up and walk. I made it half an hour before I felt strong enough to make it into a slow jog. The run wasn’t just difficult to make it through. It hurt. I had a hard time reconciling with the fact the food was having such a visceral effect on me. Was this food really as bad as my body perceived it to be?
Lunch
Thursday's lunch includes bologna on white bread, potato chips, an orange, and vegetable juice.- Package of bologna
- Package of potato chips
- Vegetable juice
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) salad dressing
- (2) mustard
- Orange
- Kosher beverage
“Bologna and franks are not ideal,” Shapiro said. “They are loaded with nitrates, which have been shown to be carcinogenic.”
According to the American Cancer Society, frequent consumption of processed meats is associated with an increased risk of colon cancer. I took two bites and immediately began having hot dog flashbacks, but managed to clear three bites. The bologna I ate was different from Koster’s “cow tongue” version, which he said is so bad he doesn’t even eat it.
Dinner
Thursday's dinner includes vegetable chili mixed with rice, vegetables, white bread, an orange, and a glass of milk.- Vegetable chili
- White rice
- Mixed vegetables
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) margarine
- Orange
- Kosher beverage
Friday
Breakfast
Friday's breakfast includes grits with margarine, white bread, an orange, and a glass of milk.- Orange
- Package of grits
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) cups of skim milk
- (2) package of jelly
- (2) margarine
Lunch
Friday's lunch includes chicken wings, mashed potatoes, sweet peas, white bread, an orange, and a glass of milk.- Chicken wings
- Sauce
- Mashed potatoes
- Sweet peas
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) margarine
- Apple
- Kosher beverage
Dinner
Friday's dinner includes Salisbury steak, mashed potatoes, beans, white bread, an apple, and a glass of water.- Salisbury steak
- Brown gravy
- Mashed potatoes
- Lima beans
- (3) slices of white bread
- (2) margarine
- Apple
- Kosher beverage
Food for Afterthought
After analyzing the menu from Monday to Sunday, Shapiro said the diet is missing leafy greens, fiber, whole grains, heart-healthy fats, and other vital nutrients. The inmates could do without the potatoes, potato chips, mashed potatoes, and fiberless vegetable juice.I am acutely aware of the lamented tone throughout my food journal. Mimicking the diet of incarcerated inmates had taken its toll on both my body and mind. The entire week I gave my food dirty looks, stare downs, and fork pokes. I felt like a snob. The food drastically affected my ability to concentrate, exercise, sleep, and eat. And there was something deeply degrading about my inability to choose. Even the thought of limitation unnerved me. But from what I could ascertain from Koster, this was the way life functioned during incarceration and had been since the prison system was initially introduced.
“I have a problem digesting a lot of this food,” Koster said. “I mean, really. It turns my stool a funny color. There’s no seasoning at all that’s put into anything. Most of the stuff is ready-made mixes or re-racked and re-purposed food. I understand they’re trying to save money, but they go to the extreme with it. Everything’s a numbers game. They could care about anything less than the numbers.”
Source:MSN
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